Tourists are flocking to Italy in unprecedented numbers, but the country is struggling to manage the influx.

Tourists are flocking to Italy in unprecedented numbers, but the country is struggling to manage the influx.
Tourists are flocking to Italy in unprecedented numbers, but the country is struggling to manage the influx.

If boat drivers are complaining about tourists overcrowding Bellagio, Lake Como, Italy, where Taylor Swift and Travis Kelce stayed at the Villa Sola Cabiati in Tremezzo two weeks ago after her Paris concerts, it indicates a problem.

Our driver informed us that on certain days, traffic comes to a standstill, making it impossible to move. He earns his living by driving tourists around the lake, showcasing the stunning views of the mountains and the 19th-century villas such as Villa del Balbianello, which were used as filming locations for "Casino Royale" and "Star Wars: Episode II."

He feels fortunate to be a boat driver, but he feels sorry for the tourists who rent cars or struggle to find a taxi.

"On certain days, it can take an hour to travel 10 kilometers, or about 6 miles, due to the narrow two-lane roads that can't accommodate the increasing traffic and larger vehicles being constructed," he stated. "In many towns, traffic is limited to one direction, causing delays for everyone," he added.

Can't live with them, can't live without them

Italy is facing a conundrum: while it relies heavily on tourism to boost its economy, it struggles to manage the influx of visitors, especially after the pandemic. In 2022, Italy welcomed 60 million tourists, generating a significant amount of revenue. Travel and tourism contributed 10.2% to Italy's GDP, and the sector employed approximately 4.4 million people, or 16% of the total workforce.

Venice has been imposing a 5 euro entry fee for day travelers not staying overnight in an effort to control the number of tourists and prevent damage to its centuries-old structures.

To view Da Vinci's "Last Supper" in Milan, you'll need to plan ahead as tickets are sold out weeks in advance. Additionally, to prevent any harm to the painting, visitors are limited to approximately 30 people at a time for a maximum of 15 minutes.

Not only are there too many tourists, but there aren't enough people to serve them.

In Marche, there is a shortage of chefs and waiters, while in Sardinia, about 25,000 seasonal workers are needed.

Italy a bargain? Not quite, but there is a lot of value

Milan espressos and croissants are surprisingly affordable, with an espresso costing only 1 euro and croissants priced at 2-3 euros.

In Milan's renowned Trattoria Milanese, you can enjoy a generous portion of the city's two most celebrated dishes, veal Milanese and osso bucco with risotto Milanese, for approximately $30-$35 each. These dishes can be found at a lower cost in less popular locations. Local wines of exceptional quality can be purchased for $20-$30 in restaurants and $10 in supermarkets.

At Camparino in the Galleria, a renowned cocktail spot in Italy, you can enjoy a negroni or Aperol spritz for $20, expertly prepared by good-looking 25-year-old waiters in formal attire, catering to the fashionable crowd on their way to an evening of opera at La Scala.

It is challenging to secure a reservation at the Veranda restaurant at Villa D'Este, a favorite spot of George Clooney on Lake Como. If you manage to obtain one, make sure to show up; no-shows are charged 100 euros per person.

Villa Oleandra, where Clooney filmed "Ocean's Twelve," is located just a few blocks away from his home.

If you want to hang out with the A-list, there are no deals. Villa La Cassinella on the lake is available for 100,000 euros per week. A wedding at Villa Balbiano costs 320,000 euros for 110 guests over three days. The same number of guests will cost between 250,000 and 500,000 euros at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo for a wedding.

Thinking of calling Uber? Forget it

It's challenging to secure a reservation and also to hail a taxi to reach the destination.

Booking private taxi drivers in advance is a common practice in Lake Como due to the narrow and crowded roads, limited taxi availability, and the need for short trips.

I was perplexed that the only Uber options were expensive black cars.

My driver flew into a rage when I mentioned Uber.

The taxi drivers are planning to go on strike next week, as they believe that these people are trying to steal their jobs by taking them away.

He doesn't have much to worry about.

Since 2015, private individuals driving their own cars for Uber service is illegal in Italy, according to travel writer Rick Steves in a note to his readers last year.

Uber provides a luxury car service in Italy, but the price is higher than a regular taxi because only licensed official black limo drivers are used.

I paid the cab driver 170 euros for a 10-minute ride in central Milan, which was significantly more expensive than Uber's offer of 100 euros for the same distance.

Standing in front of the "Last Supper" for 15 minutes is a sublime experience that makes the hassle worthwhile.

I was relieved that the meeting only lasted 15 minutes. I had to leave to call the restaurant we were going to that night for a reservation and ensure I had a taxi to get there. Being a tourist in Italy is becoming a full-time job.

by Bob Pisani

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